Now that we have our computer back we’ll be able to post some stories from the past month. One of the most noteworthy/photogenic/inspiring/interesting (pick one) experiences for many travelers in South America is a trip to Machu Picchu. Our trip there coincided with my brother Richie’s visit in early January.
Not much is really known about the lost Incan city. American historian Hiram Bingham “discovered” it in 1911, guided by locals, but it was a place that the Spanish conquistadors never found. No one knows whether the city had been abandoned by the time the Spanish arrived or whether it was perhaps a last stronghold to preserve Incan culture as the empire crumbled. Restoration and research are ongoing.
Megan’s parents visited Macchu Picchu back in the 1970’s. Tourism has exploded since then, bringing changes that raise a lot of questions. Their stay in Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu pueblo, 8 km below the ruins) required crashing in the one building that had been converted into a guesthouse with pads for travelers to crash on the floor. They were able to make their way up to the Incan city to see its majesty as some of the only visitors there in the early morning, but even then, the tourist train eventually arrived from Cuzco, carrying crowds that wanted to experience this amazing place.
The crowds kept coming over the past few decades, evident by the number of hotels, tourism businesses, and prices that we encountered along the way. We made our way from Cuzco to the beautiful town of Ollantaytambo to catch the train to Aguas Calientes. We wanted to spend a night there and make it up to the site before the morning train from Cuzco arrived. Aguas Calientes, described by Lonely Planet as one of “the most exploitative towns” in Peru, is now full of pricey hotels and restaurants, but lacks places for budget backpackers to crash. Completely unable to find a place to stay anywhere within our budget range, we started to explore the outskirts of town. A woman stopped us before we walked off into nowhere to ask where we were headed.
“We were hoping to find a place to stay the night up this way.”
“There’s nothing there, but my daughter works in a hotel, I’m sure we can rent you some floorspace…”
Saved! Just as we entered the building, the skies opened up in a downpour that would continue through the next morning. We ended up renting the room that the daughter normally lived in herself- there were luckily a couple of beds for us. We tried to arrange ourselves so that the rain wouldn’t drip onto our faces as we tried to sleep. In the middle of the night we discovered that the floor had flooding, soaking some of our clothes for the next day… We fitfully tossed and turned, waiting for morning to come.
Outfitted with ponchos and an umbrella to cover our camera, we made our way up to Machu Picchu in the morning. We arrived at the perfect time, just as the rain and mist was starting to clear to allow us a perfect vista. It’s a magical place full of ancient terraces, walkways, and temples. We climbed the nearby hill of Wayna Picchu (the steep one behind the city) for an incredible perspective on the city and the surrounding hills. Incredibly steep yet lush and green peaks pierce the clouds in all directions, with the occasional snow capped mountain peering over their tops. In the center of it all is this incredible ruined city that somehow we were lucky enough to be walking around. It turned out to be a beautiful day and we spent as long as we could meandering through ancient walkways, even taking a nap on the ancient steps overlooking the mountainside.
Humbled and in awe, we caught the train back to Ollantaytambo to make our way back to Cuzco. It’s hard to find the words to describe how magical a place Machu Picchu is, and yet that magic could perhaps be its downfall. A popular way to arrive to Machu Picchu is via a 4 day hike on the Inca trail, described as one of the most stunning treks possible; yet most stories about the trek revolve around the amount of traffic and crowds on the trail. The site itself can support only 500 visitors per day, a number exceeded daily even during the off season. We experienced firsthand the price hikes that Aguas Calientes is known for and were lucky enough to find a way around them.
So what’s the responsible and fair way to manage tourism to this absolutely incredible place, to ensure its protection?
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